11/11/2022 0 Comments Sucking in air at the exhaust![]() (Or a head gasket, but how would that have blown sitting in the barn?). Yesterday we realized that the exhaust is sucking air in, which seems like maybe a problem with a valve. ![]() We have spark, and we have rebuilt the carburater, but still can't get it started. (Both of us are novices!) The previous owner said it was running 5 years ago, but has been sitting in the barn since. My son recently spent his 4-H money on a 1945 Farmall A, and we're working on it together. I know it's a pain but the safest way is to pull the stator cover off and turning the engine over with a socket and ratchet on the balancer bolt.Posted: Sun 10:00 am Post subject: Farmall A Exhaust Sucking Air What ever you do try not to be tempted turning the engine over with a wrench on the nut or bolt that holds the advancer to the crank, you can easily bend that bolt and or snap the pin off the end of the advancer which is what happened to the OP's advancer. ![]() Once you're satisfied that you have the right "T" mark, then go ahead and mark it some how so you'll know which one is which. You might want to spin the engine around again just to confirm the same marks on the advancer line up or are close to the mark on the block when the straw stops coming out any farther. The marks on the advancer for the 1-4 and 2-3 cyls are 180 apart from each other so the one you're looking for should be real close to the timing mark on the block provided you weren't turning the engine over too fast and stopped quick enough. VERY slowly turn the engine over by hand and the very moment the straw stops coming up and starts to go down STOP turning the engine over and take a quick look at your advancer to see which "TF" marks are closest to the timing mark on the block. If your advancer isn't specifically saying what cyls the "TF" marks represent then you can try simply pulling the spark plug from either the #1 or 4 piston and dropping a straw down the cyl bore so the bottom of the straw rests on the piston. I looked up a 650 advancer on ebay but couldn't find a good enough pic of one for me to take a close look. I have a couple of advancers, 1 from a 550 and the other a 750 (same advancers really) and they both have 2-3 or 1-4 stamped right after the "TF" stamp. I was just simply pointing how newbs get this confused. So if you're reading this Dave please understand I wasn't trying to dis you at all. The confusion here is that Dave is looking at the degrees from the cams point of view in which 90 out of time is correct, I on the other hand am looking at it from the cranks point of view in which 180 out of time is correct which basically means we're both right but as I said before that's not the point because your still screwed. ![]() Are you taking it with the cams position in relation to where it's supposed to be or are you taking the cams position in relation to the crank? If the cam is 180 off with it's own position then it's 360 off to the crank which as Dave said doesn't amount to a hill of beans and I absolutely agree because all it means is that instead of #1 being at tdc at the end of it's comp stroke, it's at tdc at the end of it's exh stroke however if the cam is 90 out of its position then its 180 off from the crank and now you have problems. I didn't mean to make it seem as though Dave was wrong, just the opposite because I agree with what he's saying it's just that the confusion is where are you taking your degrees from. We're talking about some newbs that don't understand that. I'm not trying to dis you Dave, I totally understand what you're saying about the cam marks being 180 off and just having to turn the crank 360 and all will be well but that only applies if you started with 1-4 at tdc in the first place. If he's positioning the cam as if 1-4 were at tdc but he's using the "T" mark for 2-3 to find tdc then he's starting his cam timing with 1-4 at bdc (crank 180 off where it should be) and he can spin that crank from now to infinity and he'll never get the cam marks to align with tdc and in the mean time the exhaust will suck air while the carbs push it out because of it. Our man curemode here seems to think it doesn't matter which "T" mark to use whether its the "T" on the 1-4 or 2-3 which you and I of course know it does matter. ![]() Dave, 90 OR even 270 at the cam depending on how you want to look at it but the diff at the crank between tdc and bdc is 180 but that isn't the point either because this is how a newb screws it up. ![]()
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